Tethered shooting means connecting your camera to another device so every photo appears there the moment you take it. It's how studios review on a big screen, how product shoots stay on brief, and — increasingly — how photographers on location back up and deliver as they go. Traditionally tethered photography meant a laptop and a long cable; CloudTether does it from the iPhone, iPad or Android phone you already carry, over USB or Wi-Fi, and can send each full-resolution shot to the cloud or a client gallery while you keep shooting.
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Tethered shooting, or tethered photography, is taking pictures with the camera connected to a computer, tablet or phone — by USB cable or Wi-Fi — so each image transfers to that device as soon as it's captured. Software on the device shows, saves and organises every frame, so the photographer, client or team can review it at once instead of waiting for the memory card.
The point isn't the cable. It's what happens to each photo straight after the shutter: someone sees it larger than the camera's screen, it's saved somewhere other than the card, and it can go wherever it's needed next. In a studio that means a calibrated monitor and editing software. On location it more often means a backup and a delivery — the client's folder, an agency's server or a live gallery.
Tethered shooting is different from phone hotspot tethering, which shares a phone's internet connection, although a hotspot can be part of a wireless tether. And it's more than the camera maker's app, which is built for remote control and picking a few photos rather than receiving every frame automatically.
More on the basics: camera tethering software (what it is, desktop vs mobile) and camera to cloud (where your photos go after the phone).
Open CloudTether and tap “Connect a camera”. Plug in a USB-C cable (PC Remote on Sony, USB tether on Fujifilm; turn a Canon's Wi-Fi off first), or tap “Wi-Fi” and follow the guided set-up.

Keep the shots on the phone, or add Dropbox, Google Drive, a client gallery or an FTP/SFTP server — several at once. Take a test shot and wait for “Test shot delivered”.

Shoot on the camera. Each frame arrives at full resolution; open it on the phone or iPad to check focus and expression, while Home counts what's shot, sending and delivered.

Every screen is shown in the quick start guide.
The camera's own screen is small, and a memory card is a single point of failure. Tethering fixes both, and the reasons people do it fall into four groups.
Focus, expression, a stray hair or a reflection in the product are obvious on a larger screen and easy to miss on the camera's. You catch it while the set is still lit.
Every frame exists off the camera seconds after you take it. A lost, stolen or corrupt card no longer costs you the shoot.
An art director, a client or an editor watches each frame arrive and gives feedback on set, instead of after the gear has been packed.
When the device is online, each frame can go straight to a client folder, a gallery or a server — sneak peeks, social posts and press images go out the same hour.
Where the photos land shapes the whole set-up. Pick the device for the job, not out of habit.
| Device | Best for | Typical software | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Laptop or desktop | Studio, product and commercial work with on-set editing | Capture One, Lightroom Classic, the camera maker's free utility | Needs a table or cart, power and a long cable run |
| iPad or tablet | Light location work where a client reviews on a larger screen | Capture One for iPad, CloudTether | Another device to mount and charge; storage fills with RAW |
| Phone | Weddings, events, sports and press — moving, with delivery | CloudTether | Small screen for review; built for backup and delivery, not grading |
Many photographers use more than one: a computer tether in the studio, a phone on location.
USB is the classic tether: fastest, steadiest and powered, ideal when the camera is on a stand or tripod. To a computer you'll want a good 3 to 5 m cable with a lock; to a phone, a short data cable is all it takes. Our camera tethering cable guide covers which plug and length to buy.
Wi-Fi frees you to move — nothing to trip over at a wedding or across an event floor — at the cost of speed and some reliability. In CloudTether's logs the same Canon took a median 0.06 s per JPEG over USB and 0.20 s over Wi-Fi. Wi-Fi tethering in CloudTether is verified on Canon, depends on the model for Nikon and Sony, and is experimental on Fujifilm. The wireless tethering guide explains the three network set-ups.
There isn't one right tether. These are the set-ups we see working most often.
Camera on USB to a computer running your editor for the client screen, or to an iPad on a stand for a lighter set. Save to the card as well for a second copy.
USB to a computer or iPad, a fixed naming scheme per product, and delivery to a shared folder the retoucher watches — they start editing while you shoot the next item.
USB-C to a phone in a pouch, or Wi-Fi on a Canon, sending JPEGs to a shared folder or gallery for same-day sneak peeks; RAW stays on the card or goes to an archive folder.
One phone tethering up to three bodies, JPEG only or resized copies over mobile data to the client's folder or an FTP server; on Canon and Nikon, send only the frames you rate.
Test at home with the exact camera, cable, device and software you'll use — tethering support is model by model, and the camera's USB mode is the most common snag (PC Remote on Sony, USB tether on Fujifilm). Use a data cable, not a charge-only one, and carry a spare. Turn the camera's own Wi-Fi off when you tether over USB, and don't run the maker's app on the same connection.
Start each shoot with a freshly formatted card; on an iPhone, a very full card slows the first USB connection. Keep power in mind: a phone or tablet tethering all day needs a power bank. Shoot RAW+JPEG and send the JPEGs when uploads must be quick. And if the signal drops, keep shooting — with CloudTether, shots keep coming off the camera and send themselves when the phone is back online.
CloudTether supports Canon, Nikon, Sony and Fujifilm. Every body of a brand uses the same code, so one verified camera proves its siblings over USB; the usual snag is a menu setting. USB is verified on iPhone and Android with the bodies below; Wi-Fi is verified on Canon.
| Brand | Tested by us | Camera setting for USB | Camera setting for Wi-Fi | Models |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Canon | USB verified (EOS R7, R5 Mark II) · Wi-Fi verified | No USB mode to set. Turn the camera's Wi-Fi off first, and make sure it isn't in a webcam or streaming mode. | Use the camera's “Remote control (EOS Utility)” Wi-Fi function — not “Connect to smartphone” — and approve the pairing on the camera. | |
| Nikon | USB verified (Z6) · Wi-Fi depends on the model | No USB mode to set on current bodies. If one mounts as storage, set its USB option to MTP/PTP. | Join the camera to the same network (Z8, Z9, Z6 III and Zf: network menu → Wi-Fi connection (STA mode)) and approve the prompt on the camera. Test before a job. | |
| Sony | USB verified (ZV-E10) · Wi-Fi unverified | Set USB Connection Mode to PC Remote (called Remote Shooting on newer menus). ZV bodies default to USB streaming — switch them. | Newer bodies (α1, α9 III, α7 IV, α7R V, α7C II) offer wireless PC Remote over an access point; others are USB-first. | |
| Fujifilm | USB verified (X-T3) · Wi-Fi experimental | Set the connection mode to USB TETHER SHOOTING AUTO (X-T5, X-H2 and GFX 100 II: network/USB setting menu). | Experimental in CloudTether — use a cable for paid work. |
Panasonic Lumix, OM System and other cameras that speak standard PTP can connect over USB (set the USB mode to PC/Tether) from the app's “Other” option, but we haven't verified them. Lumix Wi-Fi uses Panasonic's own protocol and isn't supported — see the LUMIX Tether guide.
All supported camerasThe original RAW (CR3, NEF, ARW, RAF…) or JPEG, not a preview, copied as the camera writes it.
Open any frame full screen to check it while you shoot.
Dropbox, Google Drive, OneDrive, galleries, Lightroom albums and FTP/SFTP — several at once.
Leave RAW on the card, send resized copies, or send only shots you rate on the camera (Canon and Nikon).
Tether two or three bodies to one phone over USB, Wi-Fi or a mix.
Shots wait on the phone and upload when it's back online.
Tag each frame with where you were when you pressed the shutter.
New: frame and fire from the phone on Canon, Nikon, Sony and Fujifilm — single, timer, burst or interval. No exposure control: settings stay on the camera.
Real camera-to-phone times from CloudTether's own app logs, not lab tests: from the download starting to the full file being on the phone. Over USB a JPEG typically arrives in well under a quarter of a second; RAW files scale with size.
| Camera | Link | Files | Median size | Median time | 90% within |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Canon EOS R7 | USB | JPEG | 0.8 MB | 0.03 s | 0.15 s |
| Canon EOS R5 Mark II | USB | JPEG | 1.1 MB | 0.06 s | 0.10 s |
| Nikon D850 | USB | JPEG / NEF | 19.0 MB | 0.35 s | 1.20 s |
| Fujifilm X-S20 | USB | JPEG | 16.9 MB | 0.39 s | 0.41 s |
| Canon EOS R1 | USB | CR3 (RAW) | 33.4 MB | 1.46 s | 1.99 s |
| Nikon Z 8 | USB | JPEG / NEF | 12.9 MB | 0.34 s | 0.70 s |
| Panasonic Lumix S5 II | USB | JPEG | 9.9 MB | 0.40 s | 0.49 s |
| Canon EOS Rebel T5i | USB | JPEG | 2.2 MB | 0.12 s | 0.28 s |
| Nikon D5000 | USB | NEF (RAW) | 10.4 MB | 0.86 s | 0.99 s |
| Canon EOS R5 Mark II | Wi-Fi | JPEG | 1.1 MB | 0.20 s | 0.26 s |
748 photos over 30 days, measured 2026-10-20. Camera to phone only; the upload to your destinations then depends on your connection. Full method in the USB vs Wi-Fi tethering speed test.
Taking pictures with the camera connected to a computer, tablet or phone by USB or Wi-Fi, so each photo transfers to that device as it's captured — for review on a bigger screen, an instant backup and, increasingly, live delivery.
Studio, product and fashion shoots where a client or art director reviews each frame; and on location — weddings, events, sports and press — to back up and deliver photos as they're taken.
Yes. CloudTether runs on iPhone, iPad and Android: connect the camera over USB or Wi-Fi and every frame transfers to the device and can go on to the cloud, with no laptop.
A supported camera, a device (computer, tablet or phone), tethering software, and a USB data cable or a Wi-Fi connection. Set the camera's USB mode if your brand needs it.
USB is faster and steadier — about three times faster than Wi-Fi on the same camera in CloudTether's logs. Wi-Fi lets you move. CloudTether's Wi-Fi is verified on Canon and experimental on Fujifilm.
Not noticeably for most shooting. Transfers happen in the background; very long RAW bursts can wait in the camera's buffer longer, so send JPEGs only when speed matters.
Yes. CloudTether tethers up to three cameras to one phone at once over USB, Wi-Fi or a mix, each sending to the destinations you choose.
Yes. Send each frame to a shared Dropbox or Google Drive folder or a client gallery, and they see it seconds after you take it.
Yes, new in 1.1.x: Canon (USB and Wi-Fi), Nikon, Sony and Fujifilm (Wi-Fi, or USB on bodies that support it), with a shutter button where the body has a remote shutter. There's no exposure control, so use the maker's software or a desktop tool to change settings on screen.
Install CloudTether, connect your camera and take a test shot. One plan with everything included, starting with a 7-day free trial.